Day 3     After breakfast we'll continue over the summit (4,086 feet), across the Denali Highway and through the Tangle Lakes Archeological District, thought to be the principal corridor through which the earliest peoples passed to populate the rest of the Americas after making their way over the Bering land bridge from eastern Asia. Passing through Glennallen and Copper Center, we'll stop at the office of our nation's largest national park, Wrangell-St. Elias, for an introduction to this uncommercialized jewel more than twice the size of Denali. The scenic Edgerton Highway leads from here to the old railroad town of Chitina at the confluence of the Copper and Chitina rivers from which we will travel the tortuous abandoned railroad grade 60 miles through the mountains back to the tiny town of McCarthy in the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias. At the end of the gravel road we'll grab our overnight bags, leave the van, and cross two forks of the Kennicott River (by footbridge) to reach the near-ghost town of McCarthy on the other side a half mile away, the only means of surface access in the months when the river isn't frozen. Excellent flightseeing tours of the area may also be available from the McCarthy airstrip that give an incomparable overall perspective. After a short hike onto the glacial moraine, and having dinner at the McCarthy Lodge, the night will be spent in the comfortable "Old Ma Johnson" Hotel.

Day 4     A van trip up the remainder of the road four miles to the abandoned company town of Kennicott overlooking its namesake glacier, allows an almost unbelievable exploration of an entire town sitting much the way it was when the mine closed in 1938. The Park Service has been busy for the last several years, renovating, shoring and adding interpretive displays to the historic buildings, as well as the incredible 14-story mill building itself. Kennicott is truly a ghost town without equal, due to its remoteness and fortunate lack of vandalism. A short hike to the Root Glacier allows those interested to clamber onto the face of an active glacier. Lunch is overlooking all this incredible scenery before our van shuttle back to McCarthy. We again cross the footbridge to regain our transport, for the trip across the Copper River basin to the great valley that divides the Talkeetna and Chugach Mountains to the lovely Majestic Valley Lodge.

Day 5     After a hearty breakfast in anticipation of the morning activity, a short distance away finds us strapping on crampons (ice cleated "overshoes") that will allow is an intimate exploration of the awe inspiring Matanuska Glacier. A sedate but utterly spellbinding stroll amongst the fantastic ice forms cannot be adequately described. One feels at once both insignificant and privileged to wander a realm so few are able to do. Photos can't truly record, but only serve to recall the sentiments. On down the road, still talking of the glacier, lands us in the old farming community of Palmer for lunch. Back through Anchorage and following the road along the glacially carved fjord of Turnagain Arm takes us past the 1964 earthquake-destroyed community of Portage. From here we will head through the Kenai mountains to the tiny end-of-the-road frontier town of Hope on Cook Inlet. Far older than Anchorage, this first gold rush community in Southcentral Alaska is still a place of log buildings and an atmosphere that can only be experienced. Lodging is in cozy log cabins of Discovery Cabins, on the edge of rushing Bear Creek.

Day 6     Following a hearty breakfast, we'll head down the road to Seward and board the tour boat to head out into the Gulf of Alaska for the spectacular Kenai Fjords National Park, passing through the Chiswell Islands Refuge. Here we will view calving glaciers up very close in our small vessel and cruise the rugged coastline to view a tremendous concentration of wildlife including orcas and humpback whales, sea otters, sea lions, porpoises, eagles, and many different kinds of sea birds. Stopped off the face of the glacier, the vessel rocking on the swells, one hears the creaking and popping of the great icy wonder that almost makes if seem alive. Returning late afternoon we'll head north through the mountain lake community of Moose Pass and back to Hope. If the weather's conducive after dinner, we might contemplate a walk to the historic Seaview Bar down on the waterfront to meet some of the local "wildlife". Or, you might just like to poke around the old settlement and see the magnificent views of the mountains bordering Cook Inlet, before lodging again for the night at Discovery Cabins.

Day 7     After a leisurely breakfast, we might try our luck at gold panning (optional; $20/person) and visit the Hope Historical Museum before following the road to the small town of Girdwood, home of the world-class Alyeska Ski Resort. Here we'll take the tram ride to the summit, with hopefully the clouds permitting a spectacular view of the surrounding Chugach Range and Cook Inlet. The original "roundhouse" is now a museum up top, and the boardwalk around it provides views in all directions to contemplate the immense land forms all around, from the valley in front, to Hope in the distance on the other side of the Arm, to the volcanoes on the far side of Cook Inlet. Others might opt for a short hike through the rainforest (yes, rainforest) after having lunch at the locally famous bakery. We'll return to Anchorage in late afternoon and officially end seven incomparable days on the Last Frontier . . .